Parambikulam Tiger Reserve

 

It was during summer we decided to plan a visit to Parambikulam tiger reserve. The stay for a night was booked at Thunakadavu tree top hut. Even though the reserve is managed by the Kerala government, the entry to this is only through Tamil Nadu. After finishing up the entry formalities at Tamil Nadu Forest check post, we entered the reserve. 

The reserve supports diverse habitat types viz., evergreen, semi- evergreen, moist deciduous, dry deciduous and shola forests. Other unique habitats like montane and marshy grasslands, locally known as 'vayals', are also found.

We were welcomed by the deer family. They were grazing and they did not expect us. When they saw us, they tried to escape, but adults on one side & fawns on the other side of the road. Seeing them desperate, we moved our vehicle a few yards back allowing them to unite and move into the forest without any tension. Even though it was a reserve, the road that led to the Parambikulam dam had many hairpins which we enjoyed to the fullest as there were no vehicles from either side. We pulled down our window glasses to enjoy nature at its fullest. We were surrounded by bamboo music, chirping sounds of birds, and occasionally smelt of elephant dungs. The distance to Kerala check post was 11.6 Kms from the Aanamalai tiger reserve check post (Tamil Nadu). To reach the Kerala check post we must go past the Top slip where there are stays provided by Tamil Nadu state.  

Once you reach Parambikulam check post you must produce your details of stay so that you will be allowed entry to the information center which is 2 kms from the check post. You must make your own travel arrangements as there are no other provisions than few KSRTC services which run 2-3 times a day. People come here for a day trip as well. The entry to people & private vehicles is allowed only till the information center. Beyond this point the entries are restricted. Those who have made the bookings for a night stay can drive till the place of stay along with the guide who is appointed and will be with us always while in the reserve. The public can avail the safari services which are carried out on forest vehicles. Click here for more details regarding the accommodation & day tours conducted by Kerala forest. Click here to visit programmes & accommodation conducted by Tamil Nadu.

The accommodation which we chose was Thunakadavu treetop hut which is a traditional treetop hut with an attached bathroom. The package includes food, safari, bamboo rafting & a trekking. The program starts with lunch and ends with subsequent day breakfast. There are only buses for Safari and it takes place twice a day. After lunch, we went to our room for a short rest and were asked to be ready by 3.00 PM for safari. The safari starts from the information center and is till parambikulam dam with various viewpoints in between and a short stop at each place including a bamboo rafting. We stopped at Thunakadavu reservoir, Kannimara teak, parivaripallam dam, parambikulam dam.

The Kannimara teak is one of the oldest & largest teak in the world. The tree is believed to be around 400 years old which has a height of 40 metres & girth of 7.5 metres as measured in 2017. It needs at least 4-5 people to encircle the tree with their outstretched hands. This teak is a sacred one for the tribal folks here and is worshipped by them. The teaks we find here now were once planted by the British. The trees were cut down & taken to England. There are remains of the meter gauge tramways which were used to transport the cut down trees to Cochin from where they were shipped. The oil content in the teak here is more than the normal teak rest elsewhere, due to which they are more resistant to termite attack & water.

After a short stop, we started our safari ride towards Parambikulam dam. We must cross a vayal (an open grassland) where we had seen a group of bison & deers grazing. But this time something caught my eye which initially I thought was a termite mound. And I shared the same with our guide as well. After a few minutes of observation, he said it is not what we thought it was, it is a tiger which later he changed to leopard. It was so camouflaged that the rest in our group could not even spot it which was perfectly captured by Dillu using his camera lens. It was a small one, watching us. It was a perfect hiding place and maybe if we had not disturbed it, it might have caught a deer. After 5-7 minutes, when the leopard realised, we were not moving, it decided to move into the forest.

When the leopard was out of our sight, we decided to continue the rest of the safari. After capturing a few Bisons, Nilgiri Langurs, Spotted Deer we stopped at Parambikulam reservoir for Bamboo Rafting. There was a small island in the reservoir where a big tusker was enjoying walking surrounded by numerous fishing egrets. The tusk was elongated, pointed & beautifully curved like an arch. But, since the sun was down already, we could not capture it. But I got enough time to enjoy the sight. After a 15 min ride on a bamboo raft, it was time for some cultural events.

During our safari, the guide informed us that the water from Parambikulam reservoir is carried to Aliyar dam through a canal built inside the Parambikulam reserve. On our way to our campsite from the visitor centre earlier that day, we had seen fencing around a canal. When we enquired about that fencing, our guide had already shared the information about Aliyar dam & this contour canal. Initially, there was no fencing, but when the predators chased the prey, even though they escaped the predators, a quite number of animals died falling into this open canal while running for their lives. The Aliyar dam project was inaugurated by then Prime minister of India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru who also addressed the public. Now a circular garden has been created where the stage was built for the same. There are several tea shops run by the tribe and a community hall where the cultural events are held. There was a half an hour dance with locally made musical instruments presented by the people living there.

It was dark by the time, all these events finished and it was time to return to our respective places of stay. On our way back, we got to see a group of Bisons & spotted Deer on the road itself here and there. Since it was dark, they all were roaming freely through the reserve. We were lucky to see 2 jungle rabbits as well.

After a palatable dinner, we slept to get up early in the morning for a trek. We got up at 5.00 AM & got ready for the trek and sat on our balcony waiting for the call from our guide. He signalled us around 5.45 AM and we had to go to the visitor centre by our own vehicle. The sun was trying hard to reach us through the thick & tall trees. On our way, we had to stop our vehicle & dim the light as we saw a pair of reflecting eyes. The day began with a leopard sighting. It waited for a while and then ran into the thick bushes. What more do you need to start off a day with. The grasses were not tall, but they were thick & dry enough that any animal can easily hide which we realised only on losing our sight off the leopard even when we can see clearly meters ahead.  

The trek begins from the visitor centre. We were welcomed by a group of peacocks who were flying from here & there from the top of staff quarters and passing signals to others in the reserve. Initial 20–30-minute walk was normal terrain after which we had to cross streams, climb big boulders up & down like the way the stone age man used to do. It was really a hard trek for me. I could climb only because of Dileep. 

Our guide was moving ahead at a safe distance from us observing around and checking on us as well. Once we reached a point where we were surrounded by only the hustling sound of wind & flowing water, our guide stopped and he waited for us to join him. He whispered that now on we must be silent & try to move in minimal or no sound. After walking along the stream for a while, he pointed something on a pebble in the stream. When I realised what it was, I could only hear my heart beat. It was a tiger paw in the wet mud. It seemed like the tiger had tried jumping over the rivulet during which the water splashed on a dry pebble nearby. We walked along the tiger paw for another 5-10 minutes and every next second, I felt we were face to face or it would pounce on any of us from the bushes. But after a while, a point reached where we could see the paws disappearing into the deep forest and we were supposed to take the other direction so as to reach the point from where it all started. From there, till the end of our trek I kept imagining that we were stopped by a tiger which was very close & looking at us & neither of us could move from our respective position. Every second passing on felt like hours and the never-ending forest. I was sweating even in that cool forest. I felt my heart was ready to jump out of my body. 

The rivulet which we were following or crossing every now & then was one of the water sources which would become thin, but never dried up even during sultry summers. So, the possibility of any of the wild animal encounter was 100%.

I kept praying during the entire trek and luckily, we were neither chased by any predators nor the elephants. We got to see black langurs, peacocks, a porcupine, mongoose, and red jungle fowl.

It was around 9.30 AM when we reached the visitor centre finishing our trek. The trek ended with a sighting of a group of beautiful peacocks. After reporting at the visitor centre, we reached back to our campsite for freshening up & a breakfast. We were dying from hunger after 3 hours of our trek. Every minute detail of this trip had been endearing, so we decided to get back here once again before we turn old.  May be then I will be carrying a brave heart enough to encounter any predator 😉

Click here for more photos from this trip.

The Republic of Türkiye - a transcontinental country

 

We had already planned a trip to the UK with Dillu’s cousin. But since we both (Me & Dillu) had already been to the UK 3 years back, we wanted to explore a new place which could easily be clubbed with a UK trip without adding a greater number of days & long travels. That is how we settled in Turkey from the few available options. We fly to a particular country/place and explore it to the fullest & then return – this is the way of our travel. That is the reason why we do not prefer these group tours which, on the contrary, cover many places with a lesser number of days. Another reason for which we settled down with Turkey was that the visa could be applied online and having a US visa was an added advantage which we already had. This trip was to be executed in fewer days of Dillu’s sign off which means we did not have time for application of UK visa & visa to any other country as well. The UK trip was already a 6N/7D trip.

Day 1

We reached Istanbul airport around evening. I will not forget this day because it was the first international flight, I have ever come across which did not offer food. It was a 12-hour long flight. And to top it, there was not enough food even when you were ready to buy (P.S. Not even instant noodles). Passengers felt like they would die of hunger. The flight crew had nothing to say other than the word “SORRY.” We had an internal flight between Istanbul & Cappadocia during the later part of the trip. The satire part was that a light meal was provided even on that short duration flight. We were transferred to a hotel which was around 45 minutes’ drive.

Day 2

This day was dedicated to the Istanbul old city tour. Firstly, we stopped at The Hippodrome of Constantinople. The Hippodrome was a circus that was the sporting and social centre of Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine Empire. Today it is a square in Istanbul, Turkey, known as Sultanahmet Square. It is astonishing fact that such a heavy obelisk – Delphi Serpent Column, was brought from Egypt and there used to be famous Roman chariot races which makes it special. Now this place is a huge park with the obelisk & a fountain.

After clicking some photographs, we proceeded to The Blue Mosque also known as Sultanahmet which is breathtaking. The colours, the lights, the mosaics & the intricate designs of murals were wonderful. You need to take your shoes off and women need to wear a scarf to cover their head. The name Blue Mosque is because ancient sailors who sailed by the mosque on Marmara saw the blue colours reflected. And when you look at it from outside, it looks blue depending on the sun. The building has six minarets. The interior has thousands of Isik/Iznik tiles painted with blue colours in floral motifs, giving the mosque its name.

We then proceeded to Hagia Sophia Mosque. Everyone should see this mosque, whose history takes us centuries back. It is a holy place that contains the religion of Christianity and Islam together. There is a spot upstairs somewhere in the mosque from where you can see the six minarets of the Blue Mosque clearly. The Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia are just a few minutes’ walk. The garden in front of this was beautiful. It was spread with different hues of tulips.

It was time for lunch and after a light lunch from a local restaurant we proceeded to Beylerbeyi Palace. To reach this, we had to cross the Bosphorus. The Bosporus or Bosphorus Strait is a natural strait and an internationally significant waterway located in Istanbul, Turkey. The Bosphorus connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and forms one of the continental boundaries between Asia and Europe.

Beylerbeyi Palace which served as a summer residence of the Sultans was also used to house foreign heads of state visiting the Ottoman capital. After this we were given the option to drop off at our hotel or some place of our choice. We got down at Aksaray. We enjoyed our walk on the roads and when we were tired, it was time for dinner after which we returned to our hotel adding a day full of memories.

Day 3

After Breakfast, we were picked up for another exciting day. We proceeded to the Basilica cistern. Descend below the streets of Sultanahmet into this majestic underground reservoir which dates to the 6th century. Also called the Sunken Palace, it is the largest cistern from Istanbul's Byzantine-era still standing. The underground chamber has over 330 distinctive marble and granite columns believed to have been salvaged from nearby buildings, the most famous being the two Medusa heads. I would call this an engineering marvel.

Our next destination was Topkapi Palace. It was constructed on the order of Sultan Mehmet Al-Fatih, Topkapı Sarayı (Topkapı Palace) continuously served as Ottoman Empire administrative center and main residence of its Sultan and his families. The palace is segregated into a few sections and buildings by several gates and courts. Some of the prominent sites to be seen there like Audience Hall, Mecidiye Pavilion, Imperial Council Hall & Harem. Since we were running short of time and there was a large queue, we did a quick tour or detour and managed to spend quite some time in the palace garden which was worth the time. It is a very well managed tulip garden, Gülhane (Rosehouse) Park. It is this palace which I found a bit teeming compared to other tourist attractions. This palace along with the Turkish delight is in our visit again list if at all we go back to Turkey once again.

Our visit was to the Grand Bazaar. It was “Grand” in every sense. It was spread such that one can get lost very easily. Different shades of light fixtures, crockery and carpets/rugs were the main attraction. We would have loved to carry a lot many things if at least they were unbreakable. It was irresistible. And finally, during our exit, we shopped at Turkish Delight from Sirvani Lokum. The shop offered free tasting and we were lured to buy. We bought a ton from there, which we realised only during packing.

We proceeded for lunch after which we had to leave for a flight to Cappadocia. It was one & a half hour flight journey & 2 hours to our hotel.

Cappadocia is a geological oddity of honeycombed hills and towering boulders of otherworldly beauty. It is a semi-arid region in central Turkey, known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley, Goreme etc. It feels as though it has been plucked from a whimsical fairy tale and set down upon the Indo-European plains. Even though our flights were later half of the day, the days are longer in Turkey in April due to which it was not dark until we reached our hotel. But it was time for dinner by the time we reached the hotel and for a sound sleep as we had a long day to follow.

Day 4

After breakfast, we headed to Devrent Valley, also known as Imagination Valley, which has rock formations that look almost like sculptures or real manifestations of objects at different times of the day. After clicking enough pictures and having our own imaginations walking around, it was time for the next destination.

Pasabag valley which is also known as monk valley where double & triple headed formations can be found. These formations of volcanic rock are due to erosion by wind & water for thousands of years. Some of these were used by ancient people to live in.

We had lunch at Avanos after which we headed to Venessa Ceramics, a wonderful creation by the pottery masters on full display. This provides an informative demonstration of the history and art of Turkish ceramics and meet the artists who make the ceramic items as well as the painters. 

There was a short visit to some jewellery shop where we learned about the precious stones and the making of jewellery using it etc. That is how I came to know about Zultanite which changes its colour in the presence of different sources of light. Even though I was pulled towards the Zultanite, I refrained from owning it due to its genuineness. These are the places taken by your tour guide which are not included in your tour package/daily tours due to the monetary benefits which they get if customers are brought in. Our tour was completed with a visit to Goreme open air museum.

Goreme open air museum is a UNESCO heritage site which is a magnificent valley filled with rock-carved churches and monasteries. Built during the Byzantine period, this historical settlement was a home to monks and a pilgrimage destination. You will be mesmerised by the intricate construction of the cave rooms and churches etched into the honeycomb landscape. The museum’s highlight is the Dark Church which is decorated with brilliantly coloured frescoes that have been carefully preserved. Even though it is very sunny outside, it gives you a feeling of cold storage once you are inside a cave. Be prepared to hike. This is rocky terrain, so there are ups & downs and few caves can be seen only if you are ready to climb quite a few steps made of stone.

We reached the hotel after sunset and it was time for dinner then.

Day 5

With lots of experiences & a handful of memories, it was time to leave Turkey. We had an early morning flight to Istanbul and then from Istanbul to London from where our next tour began.

Click here for photos for more photos from our Turkey trip.