It was an afterthought –
Bhutan was never the plan, until suddenly, it was the only plan when Dileep’s
sign off was confirmed last minute. With Bhutan locked in as our destination,
it was time to move forward with the next steps and that is when we realized a
guide was needed who would accompany us during our entire stay in Bhutan. Our
search for right Bhutanese tour operator had begun and ended up with Ms.Sarita
Rai from Little Bhutan. We already had a brief list of non-negotiable places
and asked Ms.Sarita to share her itinerary sharing number of days we could
spend in Bhutan. We opted for the skies over the road when it came to entering
Bhutan. Most tour packages connecting India and Bhutan are road-based journeys
where you travel from Siliguri/Bagdogra and crossing at the Jaigaon (West
Bengal) – Phuentsholing border. Here you will get visa on arrival. But since we
chose to fly, we had to get e-visa which was also assisted by Ms.Sarita. The tour cost also includes guide fees & Sustainable
Development Fee(SDF) which are charged per night based on your tour itinerary.
As a landlocked nation,
Bhutan has no direct access to any ocean or sea. Paro Airport is renowned for
its extreme difficulty, as the surrounding mountain peaks restrict landings to
only a small number (as much as 50) of specially qualified pilots. This was a
fact that came to light only when Mr. Wangchuk shared it with us on our final
day.
Day
1 | Kolkata -> Paro | 1hr 10min
A flight to Paro promises
an unforgettable experience, especially on clear days when Mt. Everest,
Kanchenjunga, Makula and other high peaks such as Jumolhari, Jichu Drakey Tsrim
Gang are visible in all its grandeur.
After completing check-in
formalities at Paro airport, we were welcomed with warmth and enthusiasm by
Mr.Gyeltshen Namgyel & Mr.Yeshi T Wangchuk in a Bhutanese style. We were
offered a Khata – A multipurpose Bhutanese fabric scarf that conveys well
wishes & respect. It is usually made of silk & white in colour even
though you can see other colours like yellow, red & blue.
As seasoned solo
travelers, who crafted our own itineraries, the idea of travelling with a guide
and driver came with some reservations and doubts. The warmth, expertise,
friendliness & professionalism of Namgyel & Wangchuk melted away all
our hesitations & doubts which we had.
Paro
Airport -> Tachog Lhakhang | 15 km, 22 min
Tachog Lhakhang is a
15th-century private monastery built by the renowned Tibetan saint and
bridge-builder, Thangtong Gyalpo, after he had a vision of Tamdrin, the
wrathful form of Chenrizig/ Avolokitesvara – the bodhisattva of compassion,
with a horse neck on his head. Known as the "temple of the hill of the
excellent horse," it is famously accessed by a restored, swaying
iron-chain suspension bridge spanning the Pa Chhu river, adorned with prayer
flags. The original iron bridge was washed away in a flood in 1969.
From the moment we
arrived, daily treks were part of our itinerary, steadily building our stamina
and readiness for the final long trek which was awaiting us at the end.
Tachog
Lhakhang -> Seven Suites, Thimphu | 30.9 km, 49 min
We made our way to
Thimphu and checked into our hotel to freshen up. Following lunch and a brief
rest, we set off towards Buddha Point.
Throughout our journey,
starting from the airport itself, our guide Wangchuk kept us captivated with
stories and explanations about Bhutan's history and culture. By the end of our
journey, he had made certain that every doubt was addressed, leaving us nothing
but clarity to take home.
Seven
Suites, Thimphu -> Buddha Dordenma | 7.1 km, 15 min
The Great Buddha Dordenma
is a magnificent colossal statue of Shakyamuni Buddha nestled in the mountains
of Bhutan, built to commemorate the 60th birthday of the fourth king, Jigme
Singye Wangchuck. Within its grand structure, the statue shelters over one
hundred thousand smaller bronze Buddha statues, each elegantly gilded in gold.
Perched amidst the historic ruins of Kuensel Phodrang — the former palace of
Sherab Wangchuck, the thirteenth Desi Druk — it majestically overlooks the
southern gateway to Thimphu, Bhutan's capital. Though construction commenced in
2006 with an intended completion in October 2010, the project was finally
concluded on 25 September 2015. Standing at an impressive 169 feet (52 m), it
ranks among the largest Buddha statues in the world, housing 100,000 eight-inch
and 25,000 twelve-inch gilded bronze Buddha’s within.
We were quite satisfied taking turns photographing each other and pausing for the occasional selfie. Without us even asking, our guide took it upon himself to become our personal photographer, enthusiastically clicking photographs along the way. Not a day went by without him asking for our phone, thoughtfully posing us, and snapping away to ensure we had plenty of beautiful photographs.
Buddha Dordenma -> Centenary Farmers Market | 6.4 km, 13 min
It is the largest farmers
market in Bhutan which attracts farmers from all over the country, all of whom
gather to sell their fresh farm produce directly to the customers. The market
is held in a two story building which houses about 400 stalls.
Heading down to the lower
level of the building reveals a delightful array of fresh, organic produce
available at pocket-friendly prices. The first floor is a treasure trove of
local offerings, ranging from dried seeds and herbs to fresh seasonal fruits.
Authentic traditional products also line the shelves, including traditional
yeast used in producing pure honey, local wine, dried cheese, cherry pepper,
and banana flower. While most vegetables at the farmer's market are seasonal in
nature, dried chillies stand as a notable exception. The cereal section is a
sight to behold, showcasing a fascinating variety of rice products such as boyo
zaw (puffed rice), colourful mekhu (crispy rice crackers), kabchi, tengma, and
kharang. A little further along, an inviting spread of dried fish, pork strips,
and balls of datse — a homemade soft cheese — draws in a steady stream of eager
customers.
Apart from fresh fruits
and vegetables, incense sticks are also sold in the market, and are very
popular with the locals. A kind of fragrant incense powder called sang is
displayed at one corner of the market. The special thing about these incense
sticks is that they are made from ingredients which are available at a very
high altitude. The Centenary Farmers Market in Thimphu remains open all days of
the week except Monday, from 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
Unlike most countries,
Bhutan operates entirely without traffic signals. Instead, traffic is managed
by uniformed police officers using stylized, hand-directed gestures at
intersections.
Farmers
Market -> Seven Suites, Thimphu | 4.1 km, 7 min
With tiredness setting
in, we decided it was time to wrap up and call it a night. After a light
dinner, we were off to sleep.
Day
2 | Thimphu -> Simply Bhutan | 7.1 km,
14 min
Simply Bhutan is a
vibrant, museum-style attraction that brings Bhutanese traditions, lifestyle,
and history to life in an engaging and immersive way. We had a wonderful time
trying our hand at archery, tossing coins into the wishing well, dancing with
the performers who welcomed us with their traditional folk dance — all far more
enjoyable than we had anticipated. The only downside is that the ₹1000 entry
fee may feel a little heavy on the pocket for larger families. We would suggest
to visit with a guide, as their cultural insights and explanations add tremendous
value to the overall experience.
Simply
Bhutan -> Wangditse hike | 8.3 km, 17 min
The Wangditse hike is one
of the most accessible and beginner-friendly trails in Thimphu, making it an
ideal choice for families with children. The trail winds through the rich
aromas and lush beauty of dense pine forests along the Thimphu valley, leading
up to the magnificent Wangditse temple. A relaxed one-and-a-half-hour walk
takes you past charming local apple farms and quaint houses — a delightful
sight that is sure to captivate the little ones. As the trail progresses, it
weaves through a enchanting canopy of oak, pine, and rhododendron trees,
occasionally rewarding hikers with breathtaking glimpses of the Buddha Dordenma
statue, the majestic Tashichoe Dzong, and the sweeping Thimphu valley below. Throughout the trail, Mr.Wangchuk kept things
interactive and fun, pausing at every opportunity to click memorable
photographs of us.
It is quite rare for us
to ask a stranger or fellow traveler to take our photograph during our trips.
Clicking photographs for fellow travelers at their request is something we
willingly do, but when it comes to having our own pictures taken in return, we
have more often chosen to decline. Our guide even remarked that Indian tourists
are typically known for clicking a great deal of photographs, and he was quite
surprised to find that we were an exception to this. We owe it entirely to him
that this trip has left us with a rich and memorable collection of photographs
to look back on.
Wangditse
hike -> Takin Preserve | 2.7 km, 7 min
The Motithang Takin
Preserve, situated in the Motithang district of Thimphu, Bhutan, is a specially
designated wildlife reserve created to protect and house the Takin — Bhutan's
national animal. Originally established as a small zoo, the facility was
thoughtfully converted into a preserve after it became evident that the Takins
chose to stay within the grounds rather than explore the surrounding forest,
even after being set free.
The story behind the
Takin being declared Bhutan's national animal is deeply rooted in a fascinating
legend dating back to the 15th century. It is believed that the revered Tibetan
saint, Lama Drukpa Kunley — widely known as "The Divine Madman" — was
responsible for the miraculous creation of the Takin during one of his
religious lectures, giving the animal its distinctly unique features. With the
sturdy build of a cow and the distinctive head of a goat, the Takin is a truly
extraordinary and unique looking animal.
Be prepared for potentially damp conditions underfoot and a considerable amount of walking, especially along the wooden boardwalk. Wearing comfortable shoes is highly advisable.
Takin Preserve -> NIZC | 5 km, 12 min
By the time we wrapped up
our visit to the Takin Preserve, it was already noon. Our guide thoughtfully
recommended a nearby café for lunch and asked us to meet him back at the same
spot where he had dropped us off. Though we insisted he join us for lunch, he
courteously turned down our offer.
The lunch break was less
about hunger and more about taking a well-deserved pause after an exhausting
day. Once we had finished our lunch, we headed over to the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (NIZC).
Of the two of us, I was
undoubtedly the more enthusiastic one when it came to visiting the world of
art. But by the time we arrived at Zorig Chusum, I had grown considerably weak
and tired, without any apparent reason for how I was feeling. Despite how I was
feeling, I chose to push through quietly, driven by my eagerness to visit Zorig
Chusum. But by the time we were done, the situation had worsened — my head was
spinning and I was unable to move even a step further. That was when we
realized what had been causing my discomfort all along — the Bhutanese dishes I
had eagerly savored at dinner the previous night had clearly disagreed with my
stomach. Though the day's itinerary was far from complete, we had to
reluctantly bring the day to an early close.
NIZC
-> Seven Suites, Thimphu | 5.8 km, 11 min
What truly touched my
heart was the genuine concern shown by Mr.Wangchuk & Mr.Namgyel upon
learning that I was unwell. They kept checking in on me right until we met the
following day. Choosing to skip dinner, I had some fruits, took my medicines,
and rested through the night, waking up the next morning feeling better. Our
guide then confided that his stomach had also been upset, and that this was in
fact the reason behind his polite refusal of our lunch invitation the day
before.
Each evening as we bid
him goodbye, he would let us know the time to meet the following morning based
on the day's itinerary. We made it a point to always be on time — in fact, we
were often early. Once he noticed this, he adjusted accordingly and from the
next day onwards, gave us the exact meeting time without any buffer. Had he not
specifically mentioned it, we would have remained completely unaware of this.
Day
3 | Seven Suites, Thimphu -> Dochula Pass | 18.8
km, 32 min
The journey to Phobjikha
takes you through the iconic 108 Druk Chorten, more commonly known as Dochula
Pass, perched at an impressive altitude of 3,150 metres above sea level. The
chortens were erected as a tribute to celebrate the peace, stability, and
progress that His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king of Bhutan,
brought to the nation. The pass rewards visitors with a breathtaking 360-degree
panoramic view of the majestic Himalayan mountain range.
Our early arrival proved
to be a blessing, as we were rewarded with the spectacular beauty of the
mountain ranges just as the clouds were slowly beginning to dissipate. By the
time we had completed our circumambulation of the 108 chortens and captured our
photographs, the sky had transformed into a stunning expanse of clear,
brilliant blue offering stunning views of the Himalayan Mountain Ranges. A quaint café at Dochula Pass serves
as a perfect pitstop, offering light refreshments such as tea, coffee, and
snacks, while also providing the welcome comfort of clean toilet facilities for
visitors. A well-timed early arrival is all it takes to ensure a more relaxed
and crowd-free experience. The cold was so biting that we had no choice but to
reach for our jackets.
Dochula
Pass -> Gangtey Monastery | 102 km, 2hr 49min
The topography of Bhutan
is a magnificent blend of towering peaks, plunging valleys, rushing rivers, and
lush green forests that stretch as far as the eye can see. Travelers with a
tendency towards motion sickness are advised to be prepared for Bhutan's
notoriously winding and twisting mountain roads, which can make the journey
quite overwhelming. Dozing off was my best defense against the queasiness
brought on by these endlessly winding serpentine roads. What made the journey
so much more bearable was our wonderful driver Mr.Namgyel, who consistently
found ways to ensure our comfort and ease throughout, without sacrificing speed
or precious travel time.
A short lunchbreak midway
through the journey gave us a chance to refuel and recharge before continuing.
The only dining option available was a buffet, which was a concern given that I
was still recovering from my stomach issue. We decided to check with them
whether any alternatives to the buffet were available. A humble request for
plain rice and dal was all it took, and the staff were more than happy to
oblige. It took us no more than half an hour to finish up and get back on the
road. What made the lunch stop even more special was the restaurant's
remarkable setting — flanked by majestic snow-capped mountains on one side and
dense, lush greenery on the other.
The Gangtey Goenpa
Monastery, also known as Gangteng Monastery, stands as the principal seat of
the Pema Lingpa tradition of the Nyingma school of Buddhism. A remarkable
structure dating back to the 17th century, it commands superb views of the
surrounding landscape and serves as a popular starting point for visitors
before they set out on the Gangtey Nature Trail. Today, the monastery is the
revered seat of the 9th reincarnation of Terton Pema Lingpa, the celebrated
Treasure Revealer. One of the monastery's most enchanting legends holds that
the migrating Black-Necked Cranes ceremoniously circumambulate the monastery
before settling into the valley each winter, and again before they make their
way back to Tibet in summer. The monastery also plays host to the annual
Black-Necked Cranes Festival, held every year on the 11th of November.
The Gangtey Monastery is
a magnificent four-storey structure comprising five temples arranged around a
central main tower. Its primary hall, the tshokhang, is a fine example of
Tibetan architectural craftsmanship, with the upper section constructed
entirely from timber and coloured using pigments sourced from natural minerals.
Eight towering wooden pillars — believed to be the largest in all of Bhutan —
lend the hall a sense of grandeur and majesty. Around 100 lay monks, referred
to locally as gomchen, are entrusted with the monastery's upkeep and
maintenance. Inside, visitors are captivated by beautifully crafted statues of
Guru Rinpoche and other revered deities, as well as intricate holy images and vivid
frescos that adorn the walls throughout the complex. In January and February,
both the monastery and the picturesque Phobjikha valley disappear beneath a
serene blanket of snow, while the monks make their seasonal migration to the
Wangdue Phodrang monastery.
Having soaked in the rich
history of Gangtey Monastery and marveled at its architectural splendor, it was
time to lace up our shoes and set off on the Gangtey trail.
Gangtey
Monastery -> Phuntsho Yanghkil Resort | 7.5 km, 18 min
The Gangtey Nature Trail
is widely regarded as the most beautiful and shortest nature trail in all of
Bhutan, making it an absolute must for nature enthusiasts. The trail begins at
the Mani stone wall to the north of Gangtey Gonpa and winds its way through
enchanting pine forests and delicate bamboo plants before concluding at Khewa
Lhakhang. The entire hike takes approximately one hour and thirty minutes,
offering hikers stunning and sweeping views of the picturesque Phobjikha valley
along the way. For those visiting during the winter months, the trail offers
the rare and magical opportunity to spot the endangered Black-Necked Cranes in
their natural habitat.
A journey that would take
a mere 15 minutes by road turned into a wonderfully unhurried
one-and-a-half-hour adventure along the trail to reach the resort. The trail
was as much a storytelling journey as it was a visual feast, offering plenty of
memorable photographic moments throughout. As we continued our walk along the
trail with Mr.Wangchuk, Mr. Namgyel had already arrived at the resort long
before us, having transported all our luggage safely ahead.
Apart from Seven suites,
Thimphu, the rest of the places we stayed at were thoughtful enough to ensure
we never went without our comfort food. We were thoroughly impressed by the
exceptional hospitality and impeccable services rendered throughout our stay.
Day
4 | Phobjikha Valley -> BNCVC | 3.1 km, 9 min
The Black Necked Crane
Visitor Centre (BNCVC) occupies a picturesque spot on the fringe of the forest and
wetland along Phobjikha valley's main road. Its well-equipped observation room,
furnished with high-powered telescopes and spotting scopes, allows visitors to
enjoy up-close and unobstructed views of the cranes. The center also houses
informative displays that chronicle the natural and cultural heritage of the
surrounding area, along with a captivating video presentation on the subject.
Rounding off the experience is a quaint gift shop offering a curated selection
of handicrafts made by local artisans, providing the community with a
meaningful avenue to benefit from ecotourism.
While waiting for our
entry tickets, we were treated to an unexpected and delightful sight — a few
Black Necked Cranes that were being lovingly cared for at the information
centre, having been unable to fly back with their flock due to injuries they
had sustained. Having been treated to such a memorable sight, we felt
completely content and requested Mr. Wangchuk to move on to our next
destination.
BNCVC -> Punakha Dzong | 81 km, 2hr 20min
This magnificent
structure stands proudly at the confluence of two rivers, seamlessly blending
administrative and religious functions under one roof — with government offices
occupying one side and sacred religious spaces on the other. Entry into the
complex is made through a climb up steep stairs, which leads into a lovely
courtyard shaded by trees, flanked on all sides by government offices. The rear
section of the structure is home to a couple of temples and a more intimate
courtyard. We ventured into the larger of the two temples, where we were
greeted by grand statues and beautifully painted scenes depicting the life of
Buddha adorning the walls. We felt truly fortunate to have our guide
Mr.Wangchuk by our side, whose thoughtful explanations brought the
chronological paintings of Buddha's life to vivid and meaningful life.
Taking Wangchuk's advice,
we made a lunch stop at a restaurant before continuing on to the suspension
bridge. We could not have asked for better — the food was genuinely comforting.
Punakha
Dzong -> Punakha Suspension Bridge | 10.2 km, 23 min
The Punakha Suspension
Bridge is a remarkable landmark, holding the record as the longest suspension
bridge in Bhutan at an impressive 180 metres in length. The bridge offers a
breathtaking vantage point over the Po Chhu river, known as the male river, and
the picturesque valley beyond. It is a photographer's dream, with the stunning
natural surroundings providing the perfect backdrop for memorable photographs.
The cool, gentle breeze that drifts across the bridge makes the experience all
the more refreshing and enjoyable.
Draped in vivid and
colourful Buddhist prayer flags, the suspension bridge is as visually
captivating as it is spiritually significant. The bridge is held in place by
cables anchored into large cement blocks on both banks, yet it sways and
wobbles noticeably when strong winds blow through. Crossing the Punakha
Suspension Bridge is widely considered an adventure for the brave-hearted, and
it is easy to see why — the swinging and swaying of the bridge underfoot
delivers an undeniable adrenaline rush that is hard to forget.
Rather than looking
around and reminding myself of where I was, I kept myself occupied by counting
the steel mesh beneath my feet, trying my best to forget I was on a suspension
bridge. Midway through my counting, the sight of the rushing river far below
through the steel mesh brought me to the sudden realisation that we were
already halfway across. Having crossed to the other side of the river, we made our
way back across the same bridge, as there was no alternative route or exit from
the other end carrying my thumping heart in my shivering hands.
Having wrapped up our
visit to the suspension bridge with daylight still to spare, Mr. Wangchuk
proposed river rafting as our next adventure. My immediate reaction was one of
hesitation, given my deep-seated fear of water. Dileep, however, was persuasive
enough to bring me around. Sensing my apprehension, Mr. Wangchuk kindly
suggested the Mo Chhu (female river) as a more suitable alternative, assuring
us that it was far less fierce and turbulent than Pho Chhu (male river).
True to his caring
nature, Mr. Wangchuk had already spoken to the rafting guide about my fear of
water as we stepped away for dress change. The rafting guide reassured us that
he had been specifically briefed to take special care of me throughout the
experience. We suited up in our safety gear, and the guide was meticulous in
checking that everything was properly worn and firmly secured before moving on
to give us a thorough set of instructions. The rafting guide was wonderfully
engaging and attentive, even taking the time to click photographs of us as per
Mr. Wangchuk's instructions. As for my fear of water, it melted away within the
very first few minutes of being on the raft, and before I knew it, I was
thoroughly enjoying every moment of the exhilarating experience. Such was the
transformation by the end of the activity that I found myself feeling bold
enough to take on the Pho Chhu river too — even though we chose not to in the
end. As we handed back the paddle and safety gear, I was overwhelmed with joy
at the experience and thrilled that I had successfully conquered my fear — and
with hearts full of happiness, we made our way back to our place of stay for
the night.
The rafting had been
nothing short of awesome, but as the adrenaline wore off, our bodies began to
feel the strain within the hour. There was a wonderful homeliness to the dinner
served at this hotel — it felt remarkably like the meals we enjoy in the
comfort of our own home. Among all the places we stayed throughout our trip,
this particular hotel stood out as the best when it came to food. We ended the
day with aching bodies and hearts full of beautiful memories, and after a satisfying
dinner, we fell into a deep and well-deserved sleep.
Day
5 | Hotel
Zangto Pelri -> Chimi Lhakhang | 22.5 km, 59 min
Chimi Lhakhang, also
fondly referred to as Chime Lhakhang or The Fertility Temple, is a revered
Buddhist temple beautifully perched atop a rounded hill in the Punakha
district. Today, it draws newly married and childless couples from every corner
of the world, all seeking the temple's cherished fertility blessings.
While Chimi Lhakhang was
formally constructed in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel, the 14th Drukpa hierarch, the
site's spiritual roots run deeper still. It was the celebrated and
unconventional saint Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529), affectionately known as the
'Divine Madman,' who first consecrated the site by building a chorten there.
Chimi
Lhakhang -> Ta Dzong | 108 km, 3hr 3min
En route to Ta Dzong, we
took the opportunity to stop at Dochula Pass, revisiting its stunning views and
treating ourselves to a pleasant lunch at the Your café. However, this time
around at the Dochula Pass, the skies were a little cloudy and the place was
noticeably more crowded than before. But the stop gave us a much-needed
opportunity to step out and stretch our legs for a while.
Our stop at Your Cafe was
specifically for lunch, and it turned out to be a wonderful choice. If you find
yourself in Paro, this place is an absolute must-visit — a true hidden gem that
should not be missed. The views are breathtaking and the coffee is top-notch.
Adding a wonderful human touch to the experience, the staff were warm, polite,
and visibly passionate about the café's rich history, eagerly sharing the
inspiring story of how their mentor had converted an old monastery into this
charming café, with all proceeds going directly back to the monks. The only
slight downside was that it leaned a little on the expensive side.
Perched above the Rinpung
Dzong on the banks of the Mangde River in Paro, Ta Dzong is a distinctive
conch-shaped fortress with a rich and storied history. It was constructed under
the governance of the 2nd Desi, Ngoenpa Tenzin Dugda, with the primary purpose
of defending the Rinpung Dzong against relentless assaults from Tibet and
India. In the 17th century, this once mighty fortress was given a new lease of
life when it was transformed into the National Museum of Bhutan under the
command of the 3rd Dragon King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. Today, housing an
impressive collection of over 3,000 artifacts spanning 1,500 years of history,
the National Museum of Bhutan has firmly established Ta Dzong as an unmissable
destination for curious and inquisitive travellers visiting the Paro Valley.
Ta
Dzong -> Rinpung Dzong | 1.2 km, 3 min
Rinpung Dzong, commonly
referred to as Paro Dzong, is a magnificent 15th-century fortress-monastery
nestled in Paro, Bhutan, widely celebrated as one of the finest examples of
traditional Bhutanese architecture. Aptly known as the "Fortress on a Heap
of Jewels," it serves as both a religious and administrative centre, and
comes alive each year as the proud host of the vibrant and much-anticipated Paro
Tshechu festival. The dzong is adorned with exquisite woodwork and commands
breathtaking panoramic views of the Paro Valley, and has even earned a place in
cinematic history as a filming location for the acclaimed movie Little Buddha.
Rinpung
Dzong -> Mandala Resort | 5.3 km, 16 min
After a long day of
travel and a packed schedule of excursions, it was time to call it a day and
rest our weary selves.
Day
6 | Mandala Resort -> Chele La Pass | 40.1 km, 1hr
23min
Situated at roughly 3,988
meters (13,084 ft) above sea level, Chele La Pass stands as Bhutan's highest
drivable mountain pass, nestled between the Paro and Haa valleys. The pass is
renowned for its breathtaking vistas of Mount Jhomolhari and Jichu Drake,
adorned with colorful prayer flags and surrounded by dramatic scenery — making
the roughly 1–1.5-hour journey from Paro a rewarding yet exhilarating
adventure.
Despite the biting cold
at the pass, the breathtaking surroundings made it impossible to put the camera
down — and we managed to capture some memorable shots along the way. A cozy
little tea shop at the pass offered a welcome respite from the cold, where we
warmed our hands and souls with steaming cups of hot ginger tea — and a
crackling fireplace that made the chilly mountain air just a little more
bearable.
Chele
La Pass -> Lhakhang Karpo | 29.6 km, 49 min
Both Lhakhang Karpo and
Lhakhang Nagpo are believed to be among the legendary 108 monasteries said to
have been constructed in a single day by the great Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo
in the 7th century. According to ancient legend, the king released two pigeons
— one white and one black — from his very consciousness to divine the sacred
sites for the temples in the Haa valley. Where the white pigeon descended,
Lhakhang Karpo was built and named accordingly, with "Karpo" meaning
white in Dzongkha, while the black pigeon's landing gave rise to Lhakhang Nagpo
— a tale that lends both temples an air of divine origin and timeless spiritual
significance.
Nestled in Uesu Gewog
within the Haa district, Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) sits majestically among
the three sacred peaks of Rigsum Goempo, rising as proudly as the fortress that
watches over the Haa valley along the banks of the Haa river. The temple
enshrines revered images of Sangye Tshepamey and Ap Chhundu, the principal
deity of the Haa valley, making it a deeply sacred site for locals and visitors
alike. Beyond its spiritual significance, the temple also functions as a
Buddhist school, nurturing the region's religious traditions. Each year, its
courtyard comes alive during the annual festival, drawing thousands of devotees
and tourists who gather to witness the vibrant mask dances and captivating
local performances.
Lhakhang
Karpo -> Lhakhang Nagpo | 4.1 km, 7 min
A short walk northward
from Lhakhang Karpo reveals the enigmatic Lhakhang Nagpo (Black Temple), a
temple steeped in mystery and mysticism. Constructed atop a hidden lake, this
striking black-painted sanctuary is deeply intertwined with tantric rituals and
serves as the sacred seat of Da Do Chen, the guardian deity of the valley.
Unlike its white counterpart nearby, Lhakhang Nagpo has no resident monks —
only a solitary caretaker and his fierce dog keep watch over its ancient walls.
One of the temple's most captivating secrets lies within its floor, where a
hidden opening descends to the lake below, believed to be inhabited by a
mermaid spirit known as a Tshomen.
Before making our way to
the next destination, we stopped for lunch at a nearby restaurant just a short
10-minute drive away, taking a well-deserved break to refuel after a fulfilling
morning of exploration.
Ha
-> Juneydrak Hermitage | 4.2 km, 11 min
Perched dramatically on a
cliff face, this remarkable retreat bears the sacred footprint of Machig
Labdrom, the revered female Tibetan tantric master who perfected the chöd
ritual — a profound meditative practice in which one visualizes their own
dismemberment as an act of complete ego dissolution.
To reach this hidden gem,
a trail from Katsho village winds alongside a gentle stream, passing the
Chorten Dangrim mani wall before arriving at a distinctive two-legged archway
chorten known as a khonying — a journey of about 15 minutes on foot. From here,
cross the stream and ascend through an enchanting rhododendron forest until a red
sign written in Dzongkha script comes into view, directing you left toward a
chorten that marks the entrance to the hermitage. Before entering, seek out the
caretaker at his nearby residence, as access to the lhakhang is granted only
through him. The final approach involves climbing steep steps with the aid of a
rope, culminating in a narrow stone entryway watched over by a weathered rock
painting of a green-faced demon.
Just below the hermitage,
a rough trail scrambles up the hillside and curves around an exposed bluff —
not recommended for those with a fear of heights or during wet weather, in
which case retracing your steps from Juneydrak is the wiser choice. For those
who press on, the trail sweeps around to Katsho Goemba, rewarding trekkers with
sweeping views over Katsho village below, where your vehicle can conveniently
meet you. A visit inside the temple is well worth the detour, offering a
glimpse of exquisite antique thangkas — intricately painted religious artworks
that speak to the valley's rich spiritual heritage.
The journey began on a delightful note — strolling from the village, crossing the stream, and gradually ascending through the enchanting rhododendron forest felt like a leisurely and enjoyable adventure. However, the mood shifted as the trail grew steeper and narrower, with the unsettling feeling that the path beneath our feet could give way at any moment. What had started as fun quickly turned into a nerve-wracking experience, and I'll admit there was a moment when turning back seemed like the most sensible option. It was only thanks to the unwavering encouragement of Dileep and our guide Mr.Wangchuk, who pushed me forward with reassuring words and steady support, that I found the courage to keep going — and I'm so glad I did. All through this nerve-wracking climb, my mind kept drifting to the even more daunting hike to Tiger's Nest awaiting us the very next day — a thought that did little to settle my nerves. There were several moments along the way where I found myself gasping for breath, the thin mountain air making every uphill step feel like a battle, leaving me wondering whether I had truly taken on more than I could handle.
As shown above, a slender fissure split the rock — just wide enough for one soul at a time — the very spot where my resolve nearly broke. There was no solid ground to stand on — instead, you had to wedge your feet into the narrow gaps between the rocks to make your way through. As strenuous as Tigers Nest was, this trek proved to be a far more dangerous and grueling challenge altogether.
Looking back, all these
days of walking, climbing, and pushing through challenging terrain had
unknowingly been the perfect preparation for the ultimate test — the legendary
hike to Tiger's Nest. Every breathless step and every moment of self-doubt had
been quietly building my stamina and resolve, readying me for what lay ahead.
Juneydrak
Hermitage -> Mandala Resort | 69 km, 2hr 9min
The moment we finally
made it back to the vehicle, an overwhelming sense of achievement washed over
me — I was absolutely on top of the world, proud of having conquered every fear
and doubt along the way. Yet tucked beneath that elation was a lingering
flutter of anxiety, as thoughts of the next day's hike to Tiger's Nest quietly
reminded me that the greatest challenge was still yet to come.
But for now, it was time
to set aside all worries, take a deep breath, and simply relax — tomorrow could
wait.
Day
7 | Mandala
Resort -> Paro Taktsang | 14.4 km, 31 min
And just like that, after
all the anticipation and nervous excitement, the much-awaited day had finally
arrived. With a quick breakfast to fuel us for the journey ahead, we set off
toward Tiger's Nest — a short but exhilarating half-hour drive from where we
were staying, with every passing minute building the excitement of what was to
come.
Given its iconic status, Tiger's Nest has been featured in a
separate blog. Click here to read about it.
With the hike behind us
and our muscles well and truly tested, it was now time to indulge in one of
Bhutan's most cherished and therapeutic traditions — a soothing hot stone bath,
a perfect reward for the day's hard-earned efforts.
Our time in the medicinal
waters was an utterly private and deeply relaxing affair — a tranquil sanctuary
away from the world, where the only sounds were the gentle lapping of the water
and the soothing warmth seeping into our weary muscles. What made the experience
all the more charming was the simple yet thoughtful way of communication — an
occasional knock from the other side of the wall, a quiet and unobtrusive
signal asking whether another heated stone was needed to keep the water at its
perfect, blissful temperature.
After the rejuvenating
hot stone bath, we took some time to browse through local shops, picking up a
few cherished souvenirs to remember our Bhutan journey by. We then made our way
back to our room, where a warm and comforting dinner awaited — the perfect way
to round off an unforgettable day before drifting off into a well-deserved and
deeply restful night's sleep.
Day
8 | Paro to Kochi via Kolkata
The hot stone bath
certainly seemed to work its magic — waking up the next morning, we were pleasantly
surprised to find no trace of joint pain or muscle soreness, despite the
grueling hike the day before. Whether it was the medicinal properties of the
water, the warmth of the heated stones, or simply the power of complete
relaxation, the hot stone bath had clearly done its job beautifully.
And just like that, our
extraordinary Bhutan adventure drew to a close. We boarded our flight home with
hearts full of beautiful memories, bidding a warm and heartfelt farewell to our
companions — people who had begun the journey as strangers but had somewhere
along the way become dear friends, feeling as though we had known them for a
lifetime.
Click here to check out the photos from our trip.
Note 1 : Mr. Yeshi T Wangchuk is a freelance guide whom we highly recommend. Should you wish to engage his services for your Bhutan trip, please feel free to reach out to him @ +97517801124.
Note 2 : October brought with it a generally agreeable climate throughout our journey, save for Dochula Pass and Chelela Pass, where the cold was piercing and unrelenting.
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